City of pastry and minimalism and beards and fringes. We thought Amsterdam would hog the top spot in our “Places Han and Dave Want To Drop Everything For and Move Too Forever’ list but we were wrong.
I am slightly beside myself with excitement to begin my Copenhagen posts. We stayed for 6 days and walked for miles and miles, exploring, getting lost, discovering, eating, drinking, eating, eating some more and falling in love with the city. We were aided enormously by two incredible sets of recommendations from some super cool friends of mine who live there- Laerke and Aniela. Their lists of where to go matched up so freakishly well that I was tempted to friend-matchmake. We mapped out all the places they recommended onto Google maps, then just spent time wherever there was a cluster of stars (we did this most places we visited and both found it useful when planning what to do in each place). I tried to condense all my Copenhagen tips and photo’s into one post but it turned into the blogging equivalent of War and Peace, but with more capitalised words and exclamation marks, so I split the posts up.
I’m starting with food and drink because they were our main drivers in each of the places we visited (Duh, of course) and Copenhagen met, then mightily surpassed, our expectations countless times. Eating and drinking also happens to be one of Frankie's favourite pastimes so she was pretty much in pastry and babyccino heaven.
The Meat Packing District is preeeety cool. We saw people leaving a club here just as we were starting our day. THAT'S how cool it is.
We ended up at Mother, in the Meat Packing district, a few times as it was close to our train station. They do wood fired, thin, crispy, pizza amazingness. They also decorate with a lot of branches so I was like; HOME. They do a cheap coffee and muffin deal in the morning, and I now want tree stumps as dining room seating.
Next Door, Tommi’s does great, juicy burgers and there was a really cool looking Indian place round the corner too.
On Værnedamsvej, Granola is a lovely, reasonably priced cafe with tables along the pavement that was packed every time we walked by. Their 'morning plate' is so charming- soft boiled egg, bread etc and they do a sweet version with french toast and pancakes.
We had a delicious tapas lunch at Falernum one day. It began to pour down with rain just as we stepped inside and we chinked glasses of excellent wine whilst Frankie napped. One of those stars -aligned lunches.
Jægersborggade was highly recommended by anyone who told us about Copenhagen and we soon discovered why. This is one trendy street with lots of sweet boutiques and eateries.
Coffee Collective does excellent coffee- we dropped by here quite a few times.
Meyer bakery is over the road. Everything is organic, flour is ground in house and everything looks so so delicious but I went with the cinamon buns every time because when in Denmark etc.
Relæ is run by an ex-noma chef and Manfreds also looked sweet, but we didn’t manage to get to either. I tell you in the hopes that you might be able to go.
Grod (pronounced sort of like ‘gruel’) further down the street was a great find and does excellent (searching for a better word here) sloppy food- porridge, dhal, yogurt etc. My dhal was served with toasted almonds and I wanted to embrace the waiter and cry salty tears all over his jumper. It was that good.
Cafe N just off the Plaza, is a tiny, affordable, veggie restaurant with a great veggie burger menu. We met up with some friends here on the first day of our trip and the last day of theirs (so lovely to see them!) and ate brunch on the benches outside as the rain hammered down on the awnings above.
The Mikkeller Bar and Bottle Shop is round the corner on the adjoining street, Stefansgade. My husband sort of vibrates with excitement when he talks about this place and we sank a chunk of our holiday dosh here. Worth it. There is an awesome playground across the road, a great greengrocer (that sells tiny succulents!) near by.
‘The good life' cafe and record shop does decent coffees and juices, and we bought quite a few surprisingly cheap records here too.
We really loved the vibe in Bevars, and found the staff to be exceptionally friendly. A dude was spinning jazz records on the decks, trendy Danes were brunching or working on their Mac's and there was great lighting and hip scented candles. We didn't want to leave but Frankie wanted to go and count the bikes, a favourite- if a little time consuming- pastime.
Kaffeværk is over the street from where a GREAT flea (more in the shopping post) is held. The coffee was great and it was also the only place ON THE WHOLE OF OUR TRIP where I didn’t receive looks of spitting disdain when I asked for decaf. I gushed my decaf excitement all over them, then ordered not one but two (?) coffees and two bags of decaf to go. The coffee dudes knew that I wanted to hug them from the look in their eyes and stayed behind the counter. (I felt quite hug-gy in CPH. It was an emotional trip, can you tell?)
- We picked up a cinnamon bun from Brødflov on Falkoner Alle because Aniela said, and I quote, “BEST. CINNAMON. BUNS. EVER”, and I couldn’t resist those full stops. It was indeed, very excellent.
-Bertels on Falkoner Alle specialises in cheese cake and also came highly recommended but we ran out of time to visit. My cheesecake loving husband was a bit mortified but drowned his cheesecake sorrows at Mikkeller so wasn't sad for long.
Image 1-Cafe N, Image 2- Meyers, Images 3,4, 5- Bevars, Images 6, 7- Falernum, Images 8,9,10,11- Mother, Images 12, 13-Mikkeller, Images 14,15,16, 17- Grod.
Another virtual hug for Aniela and Laerke for these great GREAT tips. So much good food!Perhaps it's because we lived in London for 10 years, but it was generally on a par with London prices and not as expensive as we feared either.
Coming up: Places to shop and Places to see!